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mdp
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« on: July 29, 2007, 11:03:45 pm » |
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I finally finished a design that replaces the two LEDs in a Neuros Recorder-2+ (Green for plugged-in, Red for recording) with a single LED that turns Green when it's plugged in (powered), Blue when the unit is turned on, and Red when it's recording. In addition to the onboard 3.3V, the design also uses +5V from the DC power supply allowing well over 20mA to the LED (design is actually capable of 100+ mA). Moreover, LEDs are widely available that produce 6000 - 8000+ mcd (sometimes called ultrabright LEDs) so lack of brightness outdoors should not be an issue. Potentiometers are also included to allow a wide range of brightness for each color. The DIY document can be found here: http://www.mikependleton.com/mdp/R2-DIY-9G.pdf |
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« Last Edit: October 25, 2007, 11:49:04 pm by mdp »
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Ex-Navy
Moderator
Sr. Member
Posts: 325
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« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2007, 10:33:36 pm » |
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Nice work, very cool
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Ex-Navy
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budwzr
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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2007, 04:25:35 pm » |
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I finally finished a design that replaces the two LEDs in a Neuros Recorder-2 (Green for plugged-in, Red for recording) with a single LED that turns Green when it's plugged in (powered), Blue when the unit is turned on, and Red when it's recording. In addition to the onboard 3.3V, the design also uses +5V from the DC power supply allowing well over 20mA to the LED (design is actually capable of 100+ mA). Moreover, LEDs are widely available that produce 6000 - 8000+ mcd (sometimes called ultrabright LEDs) so lack of brightness outdoors should not be an issue. Potentiometers are also included to allow a wide range of brightness for each color. The DIY document can be found here: http://www.mikependleton.com/hold/R2-DIY-9G.pdfVery Slick Mike! Nice job. |
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mdp
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« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2007, 11:39:22 pm » |
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Thanks everyone for the kind words and to those who emailed me to buy one or ask for more information. I updated the DIY manual to include additional installation and operational details. It's the same link as before. For those handy with a soldering iron and can deal with SMT parts, a complete BOM at cost is $10 plus ~$5 to box and ship it to lower 48 states. Given some spare time, I'll assemble and test a unit for an extra $10. I hope people find this as much fun as I did. http://www.mikependleton.com/mdp/R2-DIY-9G.pdf |
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« Last Edit: November 12, 2007, 12:20:54 am by mdp »
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SL-ReDDoG
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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2007, 04:13:09 pm » |
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I'm not sure how I'm going to do it right now.. But I'm going to try and make this hack a remote. I'm putting this unit on a sportbike and would like to but the leds on the "dash" while the unit will be affixed near the rear. hmmm
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mdp
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2007, 11:17:48 pm » |
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Moving the LED to a remote location is easy by running wires from the board to the LED instead of soldering the LED directly to the board. I don't know how to "wire" the remote part.
BTW - I assembled 10 of these in my spare time this weekend and will sell/ship them at cost, $15 each, to the lower 48 states until they're gone. Then it's back to unassembled units.
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924RACR
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« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2007, 08:44:07 am » |
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Cool - you have mail!
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Teh Porkchop Express!!
Neuros Technology Team
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: I am a geek!!
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« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2007, 02:46:50 pm » |
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Think i will make this a sticky!
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With great powers, come great responsibility!
Uncle Ben
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924RACR
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« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2007, 10:08:46 am » |
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Forgot to add - got mine the other week, very cool, very nice kit! Now I have to catch up with my electrical guru for installation - don't trust myself for this one!  Thanks! |
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