I am in Toronto, I have some units left, how many did you need

BJ,

I will contact you directly.

Exnavy

New R2 Control Board from Steve at xavien.com:

Allows you to connect a simple on-off switch to start the R2 recording. Pressing it again, stops the recording.

A safety circuit monitors the battery voltage. If the battery gets too low, the control board will stop the recording so it can be finalized without losing any video or audio.

The control board allows you to  connect both the R2 and a bullet cam to the same car/motorcycle/boat, 12Vdc battery supply.

Simply put in a project box, dash, anywhere you want it and connect and go.





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Would you rather  have a control unit that provides both 5Vdc and 12Vdc to the R2 and Bullet cams, plus provide the necessary IR signals to
the R2 all on a separate battery??

Steve from Xavien.com is almost finished building a unit that eliminates the need for car power and the remote.

The unit also senses low battery voltages and finalizes the recording so you won't lose any race video.

He has just finished the first one.

www.xavien.com

The OSD uses Sony SIRC remote commands.

Two switches:

1. Turns power on to the OSD.

2. Another pushbutton switch with a circuit that sends the Record and Stop Ir commands would be perfect.

Is there interest in this type of circuit??

This unit will replace your digital cable box, PVR, PC, OSD.

It supports EPG, VOIP, PVR, records SD, HD, and has a full blown Fedora install on it.

I tested it:

http://www.sysmaster.com/products/digital_media_center_pc.php

How many people are interested in using the R2 as an in car system??

I am developing an OSD data acquisition system that will also record/display RPM, Speed, Exhaust Gas temp, lap time, GPS if necessary, using a Parallax Propeller chip.

The ON/Record from the remote can be duplicated through the Propeller chip and sent to the R2 when the switch is turned on.

I have tried a prototype on a F1200 and a Ducati bike.

The problem with developing an in car or motorcyle system with the R2 is whether the R2 will be supported much longer.

The PSP battery pack I have did not have the same adaptor required by the R2.

If yours does, and it provides 5Vdc to the center and gnd to the outside of the connector then it will work.

The R2 uses very little amperage (a/hr) and certainly any 5vdc adaptor, battery with the proper connector and proper connection (+ is center) will
work.

In a car, the 12vdc should be reduced using a switching regulator not a regulator like the 7805. The 7805 will dissipitate the 7 volt dc and amperage
and get hot.

The best way in my opionion is to buy a 5 vdc battery pack that can be charged by the car 12vdc. This way when the car is shut off, the power to the
R2 is not. It will keep working until the 5 vdc battery goes below 3.3vdc. The car continues to charge it though.

That battery will work, however make sure the tip is positive, ring is ground.

(Center + outside is gnd)

Yes you can use a PSP power supply and change the dc connector.

The connector is a spring loaded one that keeps a good connection. It's easier to buy an adaptor from the Neuros accessory link then
buying your own connector. Simply cut off the wire from the Neuros adaptor.

Here is a link for a PSP supply:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Emergency-Charger-9800-mAh-for-Sony-PSP-Nintendo-NDS_W0QQitemZ280228684533QQihZ018QQcategoryZ139969QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The unit is also charged from 5 volts dc. If you can, just get a voltage regulator like a 7805 and wire it to provide 5 Vdc to the PSP battery pack. Run the Neuros off of the battery pack, not the car. Alternator whine causes your audio to be affected.

With regards to running your other devices off of the car, simply connect them via your fuse panel. Regualate the voltages using a good
switching regulator and a good size capacitor for removing any alternator whine.

And yes, if your PSP battery drops below 3.3vdc you will lose your video recordings

Have fun!

There are 2 voltage regulators, U17 and U18.

U17  is on top of PCB, very top right chip when looking at the PCB from the front.

Pin 1 of U17 is bottom left. Pins 5,6,7,8 are all grounds.

Pin 2 is voltage in (5 volts dc), Pin 3 is regulated voltage out (3.3 vdc)

Below Pin 1 of U17 is an empty solder pad with a + beside it. The empty solder pad across from it at 3 o'clock is gnd. This should be 3.3vdc if regulator U17 is working.

U18 is on bottom side of PCB.

When looking at the front of PCB, U18 is top left chip.

Pin 1 of U18 is top right pin

Same pinouts as U17. Pin3 to Pin 5,6,7, or 8 should be 3.3 Vdc or so.

Also check Ir demodulator. Center pin is gnd, pin opposite TP2 should be 3.3vdc.

It could be that the IR receiver is not working.

There is a test point under the IR receiver where one could see the inverted pulses from the IR receiver when a button is pressed.

The other possibility in mass production is if these boards were not uploaded with the firmware. Everything is controlled by the firmware.

Point your remote at a cell phone camera, web cam or digital camera. Look at the remote through one of these devices.

Press any button on the remote.

Do you see the IR Led flash on the remote??

If not, the remote is the problem.

I think by using the PIC and a 20mhz crystal is ideal.

Using assembly is in my opinion the best because when one uses Swordfish, C, Pbasic, timing cannot be accomplished as good as old assembly.

You can actually count the codes so the instruction cycles can be estimated.

Here is a good forum to see about this:

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/micro-controllers/

Search it for Sony, NEC, or RC5 to see sample code

Another good tutorial is here: Nigel Goodwins

http://www.winpicprog.co.uk/pic_tutorial5.htm

Very very nice setup!!!!

Welldone!

Check out www.blackeyeusa.com for a cool helmet mounted camera. Not as good as the Sony.