Neuros Technology Forums

Got my OSD today.  I didn't see any mention of the need to program the remote so I spent 20 minutes figuring out why it didn't work.  Got that sorted out and did an emergency upgrade to 3.20.19 (from 3.13.13??).  Interestingly, when I go to the properties the reported version is 3.13.19.  It's got the right end number (19) but not the right middle number (13 instead of 20).   Ok, no biggie.

I got ready to record and noticed no sound from my TV.  Hmmm...  ok, whatever.  I set to AVI and resolution to Super Fine and started to record.  I immediately noticed the picture bouncing up and down a bit - a vertical shake every second or two.  Stopped record, played it back and it still had no sound... and the video jiggle was still there.  Played the file on my PC te verify and it still has the jiggle but there was sound.

Swapped A/V cables and the problem reversed.  Now I had output sound but no input sound.  A bad cable, obviously.  That's an easy remedy.  What bothers me is the video jiggle.  Appears consistent with a data burst write to the CF card as there about 0.75-1.0 seconds of shake with about a 1.0 second stable video.

Hey Mxracer95,
I noticed the same thing and it turned out to be my camera. I have a Sony Exview and noticed what you described,
especially at nite. It really shows pixels.
I got another bullet cam, (generic Taiwan manufacturer) for $90 and it has crisp images even at night. It is wider in
diameter.
I replaced the camera cable with double shielded and got even better results.

The Taiwan cam has a lower lux rating than the Sony Exview.

Maybe that helps, good post by the way, on the 12V pc supply, I never thought of that.

After finally upgrading my firmware to make use of the fixed auto-record feature, I tested recording from cable TV.  The pixel compression artifacts is the same.  Although, I was able to notice a slight clarity improvement from Fine to SuperFine, but even on SuperFine, the pixel compression kept the video quality far from broadcast quality.  But again, if I reduce the playback size to 320x240 (when recorded at 640x480) it does look pretty good.

This is a great fix!  It will help me out a lot.  BUT... I still found a problem with it.

When set to Auto Record, if you manually record, it shuts off the auto record permanently.  You then have to go back in to the menu and turn on auto record again.

Ex-Navy also posted a hard wired DC/DC converter you can buy from here: http://www.medusaproducts.com/
It's a BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit).

On my motorcycle, I've been using a 12v mini-PC regulator to power my 12v devices (like the bullet cam, radar detector, GPS) and then powering a 5v step-down regulator (industrial grade, PCB mount - overkill and a hassle to deal with the PCB leads, but it works great) and no engine/alternator noise.

I haven't been able to find the regulator portion of the mini-PC power supply separately, so I had to buy the whole 12v power supply kit, but I went with this knowing that computers need clean power and I figured this 12v regulator is designed to power computers in a car and would do a good job cleaning up noise.  So far, it seems to do a good job.

I realize this thread is several weeks old, but I wanted to comment on picture quality since this is one of my few peeves with this device.

I use it on a motorcycle with a Rainbow BC33W bullet cam (480 TV lines).  I've tried setting the resolution to 640x480 and quality to the highest, but the video quality looks no better than when the quality setting is at "normal" (which is not that great).  It looks like 320x240 blown up - you can see all the jpeg-type pixel compression.  If I reduce the size to 320x240 it looks decent.  Or, if the video image has relatively little movement in it, it looks pretty good at 640x480.

Is this a limitation of the R2 processor to compress at high quality when there is a lot of movement?

Anyone else experience this?

Nero Vision (part of the Nero CD/DVD burning software package) handles MP4 natively with no problem.

Good find on the BEC.  I bought an industrial grade, surface mount DC/DC converter for about $50.  This one for $25 does the same job for 1/2 price and 1/2 hassle.

Dhaynes, we should get together and come up with a motorcycle-friendly solution together.  I've been doing the same thing.

What are the physical dimensions of the OSD, compared with the R2?

Definately need TRUE and PERMANENT auto record (no remote needed, just plug in the power and when a video source is present it powers on and records)
AND
loop record

oh, and for this to work properly, it needs to handle power disruptions.  right now if it's recording and i kill the power to the unit (as i would when it's powered in a vehicle) it leaves the file in an unusuable and even hidden state.  it should record the files in a way that they can be used or repaired if recording is suddenly disrupted, or, when the unit is powered on it should detect un-finalized files and finalize them.

Is there any way to get better video quality out of the NR2?  I was hoping for near broadcast quality, but even on "superfine" the pixelation is extensive.

I'm looking for this feature as well.  Same idea, only on a motorcycle.

Well I think I stumbled into the right thread.

I purchased my NR2 a few months ago because I want a permanent video recorder on my Yamaha R1.  What I hope to eventually achieve is to turn on the bike, and have video record automatically with no user intervention.  I also want it to loop record, so once the media is full, it begins to over-write existing data.  So I never have to touch the unit unless I need recent video.

For example, I want video the next time I crash into a car that pulls out in front of me as evidence of who is at fault.  Or the next time I get a ticket for driving on the shoulder I can have video evidence that I wasn't on the shoulder.

This auto record circuit is a big step toward that goal.  If you're looking for testers, I'd be happy to help.